Two evenings here were quiet. It struck me as odd that there were only two places one can go in the night regularly: nightclubs and family restaurants or gay bars, sprawling along and across the whole downtown of Papeete. By the second meal on the first day, one practically knows the whole road grid of Papeete. Apart from novels after novels, tea after more tea at the al fresco café, it was swamps of tourists, either embarking from the cruise liners, or transiting from the outer islands after a dive vacation. Realizing that I was not the only one feeling that way: the family over the other table looked on, making conversation and obviously pleased to see other new comers searching for maps or darting their cameras away into their hand carrier. There were some slightly worrying moments as I realized I knew nothing about Polynesia for as long as I have been here. I let out an inevitable sigh, loud enough for myself to hear. I was frothing almost like a can of whipped cream out from my mouth!