We took off from Tentena the next morning, crammed onto the back of a shoddy old jeep that had seven other occupants, along with heaps of boxes of smelly fish, peanuts, a horribly loud sound system and a radiator that overheated every twenty minutes and needed even more water than my California Honda. The trip along the terrible dirt road to Bomba at the eastern end of the valley took some seven hours, and although it was pretty tiring, perched on the back of the jeep with legs dangling and rear bruising, it was kind of entertaining, and we experienced the pinnacle of Indonesian pop music for most of the trip: Deddy Dorres, an overweight crooner who looked like an Indonesian Fat Elvis, complete with big shades and bigger sideburns. His music was terrible, his image embarrassing, but he is, by all accounts, one of the most successful artistes in Indonesia today.